Horological news in brief

TAG Heuer Monaco, 40 Years of Legend

Launched simultaneously in Geneva and New York on March 3rd, 1969, the Monaco caught the watchmaking world by storm. The provocative look of the timepiece, with its fire-red chronograph hand, metallic blue dial, domed crystal, and big, squared-off case represented a complete break with the conventional codes of watch design aesthetics. Equally radical was the engineering required to ensure the chronograph’s perfect water-resistance — a world first for a square-shaped timepiece. But what was ticking inside was even more revolutionary: the famous self-winding Chronomatic “Calibre 11”, the first self-winding automatic chronograph movement with microrotor, so precise it rivals to this day the exacting standards of professional chronometer instruments.

steve mc queen

For Le Mans, Steve McQueen’s source of inspiration was his friend, Jo Siffert, the Swiss racecar legend who in 1969 became the first-ever driver sponsored by a watch brand, Heuer. The Heuer Monaco had just been launched and so impressed McQueen that he insisted on wearing it in the film.

Questions & Answers to Jack HEUER, Honorary Chairman of TAG Heuer and Jean-Christophe BABIN, President and CEO of TAG Heuer

Jack Heuer

1. What was the inspiration for the Monaco ?
It was closely related to the most important product launch in my life — the first automatic chronograph, which was unveiled on March 3rd, 1969. In preparation for this major announcement, we decided to not only bring out one single model but a full range to satisfy all of our client segments. We knew we needed a Carrera model and decided also on the Autavia, a bit heavier with a turning bezel, for our automotive and aviation public. But then we also saw a need for a completely new design in chronographs. All our chronographs in the 60s were water-resistant. Up until then all our watches had been round, due to the lack of water-resistance in square or barrel-type cases. Then a case maker, Piquerez, showed us his new waterproofing system for square cases, the one with the four notches that clip into the back of the case and, through tension, creates water resistance. This was an entirely new, patented and innovative technique, and so we negotiated with Piquerez for exclusivity on all chronograph applications. We knew it would be an avant-garde design, but it was not only the first square automatic chronograph, it’s also one of the first water-resistant square watches.

2. How did Steve McQueen come to wear a Monaco ?
Heuer watches were worn by Jo Siffert, a Swiss Le Mans and Formula 1 driver who became our first official ambassador. For the Porsche 917 driving scenes, McQueen wanted to remain as faithful as possible to the race driver’s universe, so he insisted that the film’s accessories department procure him Jo Siffert’s complete driving suit, which, of course, had to include a Heuer chronograph. The Monaco’s starring role on the actor’s wrist helped create its legend, but it was the chronograph’s radical look and its complete break with tradition both inside and outside the case that made it stand out from the pack.

3. Why is it called Monaco ?
This new model was really quite avant-garde and we needed a name that would appeal to a chic, high-end target public, the kind of public who frequents places like Monte Carlo, which, in those Grace Kelly years, was extremely fashionable. However, we had already developed the Monte Carlo watch (the famous dashboard stopwatch) with the jumping 12-hour disc, so we decided to create the Monaco, which would attract an elite public.

4. What do you personally like about the Monaco ?
When we launched the Monaco, we were quite anxious because it was such a daring new look! However, since it was part of a trio, most of our retail clients bought all three models, which gave it good exposure immediately. It was bought by architects and actors, and of course the fact that Steve McQueen was very clearly shown wearing it in the film Le Mans, gave it a glamorous as well as a rebellious image. In other words, we reached the public we had hoped for! Personally, I like its strong, unusual look — it sort of fits our corporate philosophy of following a different path from our peers.

5. You created the Monaco close to 40 years ago and later revived it in the TAG Heuer collection. Now it is one of the most popular series. What do you think and feel about it ?
Traditionally, chronograph designs have always been and still are round designs. So, using a totally new shape that still allows full use of chronograph features is very much in line with the “TAG Heuer Swiss Avant-Garde since 1860” motto. I am rather proud that we had the courage so many years ago to launch such a revolutionary piece. It has caught on in such an amazing way with today’s public and its shape and design are still fully up to date with our clientele’s taste. The Monaco’s resolutely geometrical model helped usher in the big comeback of special-shape watches.

Jean-Christophe BABIN

1. What is the most unique feature of the Monaco ?
There are many features in the Monaco series. Invented in 1969, the Monaco is an historical TAG Heuer icon: the first chronograph with a water-resistant square case equipped with a Chronomatic Calibre 11, the world’s first automatic chronograph movement with a microrotor. This is no longer a novel feature but at that time the rather unusual solution of putting an automatic chronograph movement into a square case was totally avant-garde.

2. What kind of people do you target with this watch ?
Initially, watch collectors and connoisseurs as well as high-profile celebrities. This watch is for purists and lovers of strong, disruptive design. The Monaco is a contemporary square watch that has become a fashion icon and Hollywood favorite. It looks as cool today on the wrist of TAG Heuer Brand Ambassadors as it did on Steve McQueen’s in 1969.

3. Why, in your opinion, is the Monaco still so trendsetting and attractive ?
First, the Monaco’s unique shape is a departure from watchmaking design tradition. Secondly, I think the Monaco series works very well because people are conscious of where we come from — motor racing and sports timing. They understand that our DNA is unique; and this makes the Monaco stronger. It epitomizes TAG Heuer’s innovative DNA and forces us to reach new creative heights. Alone in its field, the Monaco remains the one and only true square-faced icon of sports and glamour. Today, it has lost none of its originality and still embodies the avant-garde spirit that inspires TAG Heuer. The Monaco has been imitated and, frankly, copied, but never matched!

4. What do you personally like about the Monaco ?
The Monaco is classical and contemporary, sporty and chic. It truly exemplifies TAG Heuer’s DNA and values. It has become, in my view, one of the most stunningly beautiful and functional chronographs ever designed. This is THE classic of all TAG Heuer watches.

5. Could you talk about the evolution of the Monaco ?
The Monaco’s emblematic square-shaped case has been synonymous with TAG Heuer’s innovative aesthetic from the moment it was introduced. The design of the first classic relaunch in 1998 used the exact replica of the original case. Since then, the case design has been incrementally improved; for instance, it is now fitted with a sapphire crystal and some of the sharp edges have been slightly softened. In fine-tuning the case we’ve been able to make substantial improvements to the original: the case shape is now considerably reduced in size and volume, making the case even handsomer. In 2003, the chronograph was re-engineered again; this time, refitted with a steel bracelet made up of seven rows of square, beveled links echoing the daring aesthetics of the case. In 2005, the Monaco Vintage Limited Edition was introduced to commemorate Steve McQueen’s 75th birthday. With its blue and black dials it was a trendsetting favorite. The re-interpretations that followed — the Monaco V4, for example — were even more revolutionary. And we have some nice surprises coming up with regards to the Monaco. Wait till you see what we have in store for you at Baselworld 2009 in April!

6. Can you explain why you chose the Monaco series for the V4? How will the Monaco V4 influence TAG Heuer as a brand in the future?
It made perfect sense to build on the Monaco’s groundbreaking heritage as a way to encapsulate TAG Heuer’s continuing quest to push outside the dotted lines of conventional watchmaking. I love the Monaco V4 and the fact that it was an icon we were working on. The Monaco is legendary, a watch we didn’t dare make any changes to for years. It is testament to our brand’s pioneering instincts and aesthetics that we continue to produce revolutionary new ideas and build them into products we love. With the Monaco V4 watch, TAG Heuer is attempting to rethink, re-engineer and re-invent the mechanical watch movement. It is the perfect example of TAG Heuer’s commitment to innovation. As for TAG Heuer’s future, my motto is: Let’s take the best from the past and add the best from today and see where it takes us!